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> Repairing Plasterboard
Rob@RWT
post Apr 13 2010, 04:59 PM
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Hi all,

I started my first paid job as a tiler today. Wahay!!!!

Its only a shower cubicle but we all have to start somewhere eh!

Anyway my issue is that I had to remove the entire back plaster board wall as it had damp in a big way caused by leaky plumbing and lack of tanking (see photos attached). Also the plumber has removed the bottom of the other 2 sides to fit the tray tomorrow. So I need to replace and repair the plasterboard once the tray is fitted now that I have tidied it up a bit!. I have an idea of how to do this and have cut back the board to the studwork for the repair pieces so I can fix it securely into place (see pics attached). But....................

1)I will be using a BAL WP1 shower kit to tank the area before tiling so should i just tape the joints with the BAL tape supplied in the kit instead of using the usual plaster scrim and adhesive over the taped repair joints?

2)Do I need to tape the ceiling to the new plasterboard wall? If so would i use the BAL WP1 tape or plaster scrim and??

3)On removing the tiles a lot of the current 3mm plaster skim came off with them. So i decided to remove all the plaster from the boards using a scraper which was time consuming and maybe i should have just changed the entire board but on removing the plaster some of the paper covering on the board was damaged and some plaster too. How do I repair or do I need to? could i just fill missing plaster with adhesive before waterproofing?

A few questions I know but I'm inexperienced and need to learn quickly. As I have said before I want to get things right first time to avoid any come backs and create a good reputation. I think I need to do a plastering course too! And plumbing! the list goes on......

Thanks in advance. Rob
Attached File(s)
Attached File  Mouldy_plaster_board.jpg ( 17.15K ) Number of downloads: 24
Attached File  mouldy_plasterboard_removed.jpg ( 17.86K ) Number of downloads: 27
Attached File  plaster_board_repair.jpg ( 22.53K ) Number of downloads: 27
 


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Guest_Gaz@BAL_*
post Apr 13 2010, 06:05 PM
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QUOTE (robwatsontiling @ Apr 13 2010, 05:59 PM) *
Hi all,


1)I will be using a BAL WP1 shower kit to tank the area before tiling so should i just tape the joints with the BAL tape supplied in the kit instead of using the usual plaster scrim and adhesive over the taped repair joints?

2)Do I need to tape the ceiling to the new plasterboard wall? If so would i use the BAL WP1 tape or plaster scrim and??

3)On removing the tiles a lot of the current 3mm plaster skim came off with them. So i decided to remove all the plaster from the boards using a scraper which was time consuming and maybe i should have just changed the entire board but on removing the plaster some of the paper covering on the board was damaged and some plaster too. How do I repair or do I need to? could i just fill missing plaster with adhesive before waterproofing?


Rob,
Yes use the tape in the WP1 Kit for boarding joints, no need to tape to the ceiling as you wont be tanking that high & if you have any of the APD primer left from the kit, then prime the damaged plasterboard and patch it with Rapid set.

hope this helps

Gaz
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pjtiler
post Apr 13 2010, 07:50 PM
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for a start DONT use plaster board in showers !!!!!
use concreat board (hardy or baca )
screwed not nailed
then use the tanking system


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leatherface
post Apr 13 2010, 10:23 PM
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QUOTE (pjtiler @ Apr 13 2010, 08:50 PM) *
for a start DONT use plaster board in showers !!!!!
use concreat board (hardy or baca )
screwed not nailed
then use the tanking system


Eeerm
Thought application of a tanking kit to plasterboard made it water proof ?


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Guest_Gaz@BAL_*
post Apr 13 2010, 10:41 PM
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QUOTE (pjtiler @ Apr 13 2010, 08:50 PM) *
for a start DONT use plaster board in showers !!!!!
use concreat board (hardy or baca )
screwed not nailed
then use the tanking system


None of the Backerboards require tanking Paul....they are water resistant not sensitive.
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Guest_Gaz@BAL_*
post Apr 13 2010, 10:42 PM
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QUOTE (leatherface @ Apr 13 2010, 11:23 PM) *
Eeerm
Thought application of a tanking kit to plasterboard made it water proof ?


Yes indeed it does Nick
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Grace's Dad
post Apr 13 2010, 10:50 PM
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Hi!
Firstly, plasterboard is miles cheaper and easier (and far cleaner) to work with than cement based boards.
Ok, a WP1 kit costs a bit, but you save money as you save time in my opinion.
Cement boards are only water-resistant, not waterproof.
I've been through my hardi-backer phase and now I only use it where I need to hang a lot of weight - never for water.

What makes you say you need a plastering course? I know loads of tilers plaster and vice-versa, but the two don't really go hand in hand.
For instance, you'd never bother skimming up a bit of missing skim coat before tiling, and bare plasterboard is of course better for tiling onto.

You'll soon be ripping those partition walls off and fixing up new ones within an hour!

Welcome to the forums too!


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pjtiler
post Apr 13 2010, 11:47 PM
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why the feck would you use plaster board in a shower its just asking for trouble down the road
its against code in most other countrys
i always tank the corners no mater what you use its just good practise

i would,nt want some of you lot refurbing my shower tongue.gif


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aostiling
post Apr 14 2010, 05:19 AM
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QUOTE (pjtiler @ Apr 14 2010, 12:47 AM) *
i would,nt want some of you lot refurbing my shower tongue.gif



You could'nt afford me PJ tongue.gif
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Grace's Dad
post Apr 14 2010, 06:58 AM
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QUOTE (pjtiler @ Apr 14 2010, 12:47 AM) *
its against code in most other countrys



But that's coz of the problems made by not waterproofing it properly.

I'm also going to throw in that I've taken out shower walls well over 15 years old, used twice a day+ which have never been tanked.
The worst I've seen on the best cases is a bit of staining on the grout lines.

Then again we've all seen the results of pi55-poor tiling onto plasterboard eh?
(I still don't like Hardibacker!)


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Guest_poolman_*
post Apr 14 2010, 08:58 AM
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i must admit I'm a cement backer board man myself, mainly the thermal-cement board's wedi,marmox,kurdi,I'm just as interested to insulate the room as waterproof it!!, and coming from a plastering background, i know water+gypsum dont go!! laugh.gif
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leatherface
post Apr 14 2010, 05:15 PM
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QUOTE (Gaz@BAL @ Apr 13 2010, 11:42 PM) *
Yes indeed it does Nick


Yea !
So no problem using in showers ! ph34r.gif


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You tube video - some of my work..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slsB3_hM8_0

My website..
http://yorkshiretilingservices.co.uk/default.aspx

Only view this if you like a bit of hardcore dance music !!! He He ( one of my first You Tube Videos )
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bp_qRilBxU
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cpowell
post Apr 14 2010, 07:12 PM
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I use plasterboard (and tank where needed) rather than backer boards, for the simply reason that many years ago I was of the opinion that most backer boards needed fixing to stud work. I therefore couldnt use backer boards to direct bond to straighten out badly uneven walls, and therefore felt plasterboard more versatile.

Are there any backer boards on the market that can be direct bonded to any thickness?
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Grace's Dad
post Apr 14 2010, 08:23 PM
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The new Kerdi-board brochure shows it being dot n dabbed (sorry for swearing!) onto brick walls.

I've used Kerdi for box work and it is luverly stuff.
I'll be using it soon for a new bathroom as a tester.


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aostiling
post Apr 15 2010, 12:13 AM
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If say fixing Marmox to blockwork, you fix with a flex addy troweled to wall. Only viable really to new blockwork that's pretty true & plumb.

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Guest_Gaz@BAL_*
post Apr 15 2010, 04:40 AM
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any of the backerboards are suitable for dry lining.
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aostiling
post Apr 15 2010, 06:43 AM
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QUOTE (Gaz@BAL @ Apr 15 2010, 05:40 AM) *
any of the backerboards are suitable for dry lining.


What do you mean Gaz? ..... or you referring to the fixing method or just making a statement re their suitability?
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Guest_Gaz@BAL_*
post Apr 15 2010, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE (aostiling @ Apr 15 2010, 07:43 AM) *
What do you mean Gaz? ..... or you referring to the fixing method or just making a statement re their suitability?

Fixing method yes....suitability....no need to waterproof them, and weight issues, better all around than plasterboard. IMO Plasterboard is good for dry areas which are to be skimmed for paint and paper...they have no place in this industry
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pjtiler
post Apr 15 2010, 10:22 PM
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don't forget to give the newly plaster boarded shower a coat of PVA
before bedding the tiles in D1
(a blob in each corner and one in the middle )


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Rob@RWT
post Apr 15 2010, 10:29 PM
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QUOTE (pjtiler @ Apr 15 2010, 11:22 PM) *
don't forget to give the newly plaster boarded shower a coat of PVA
before bedding the tiles in D1
(a blob in each corner and one in the middle )

great advice. cheers


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