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Dec 5 2009, 10:49 AM
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#1
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 16-July 09 From: Brighton Member No.: 2,070 |
Hi, I have just looked at a job that needs walls re plastering, it is only between the worktops and cupboards, but they want it finished for crimbo, should i wait 3-4 weeks for plaster to go off and not get it done or is there something from bal i can use to make good walls? Marble mosaic tiles.
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Dec 5 2009, 11:26 AM
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#2
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![]() Forum Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 2,243 Joined: 13-February 09 From: Lancashire Member No.: 2 |
Hi, I have just looked at a job that needs walls re plastering, it is only between the worktops and cupboards, but they want it finished for crimbo, should i wait 3-4 weeks for plaster to go off and not get it done or is there something from bal i can use to make good walls? Marble mosaic tiles. Jason, you could remove any plaster still on there, and either face it by dot and dabbing boards or skim it up with Quickset render, you can tile it after 2 hours. BAL Quickset Render -------------------- BAL Product Support Technician- Northern England 07970- 450192 |
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Dec 6 2009, 11:40 AM
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#3
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 2-February 09 From: yorkshire Member No.: 1,102 |
Jason, you could remove any plaster still on there, and either face it by dot and dabbing boards or skim it up with Quickset render, you can tile it after 2 hours. BAL Quickset Render On the subject of render, Ive looked at a job where the old tiles have been removed from a kitchen wall. The skim coat has been removed with the tiles, leaving the backing undercoat. My question is, do I prime with APD before applying the render, because of cement and gypsum incompatability? The render I believe is polymer modified, so unlike plaster do I not need to put a keying agent on the walls? |
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Dec 6 2009, 11:55 AM
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#4
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![]() Forum Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 2,243 Joined: 13-February 09 From: Lancashire Member No.: 2 |
On the subject of render, Ive looked at a job where the old tiles have been removed from a kitchen wall. The skim coat has been removed with the tiles, leaving the backing undercoat My question is, do I prime with APD before applying the render, because of cement and gypsum incompatability? The render I believe is polymer modified, so unlike plaster do I not need to put a keying agent on the walls? When you say backing undercoat Craig.....is it Bonding or Browning plaster ??? -------------------- BAL Product Support Technician- Northern England 07970- 450192 |
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Dec 6 2009, 12:29 PM
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#5
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 1,308 Joined: 25-March 09 From: Cumbernauld Member No.: 1,825 |
On the subject of render, Ive looked at a job where the old tiles have been removed from a kitchen wall. The skim coat has been removed with the tiles, leaving the backing undercoat. My question is, do I prime with APD before applying the render, because of cement and gypsum incompatability? The render I believe is polymer modified, so unlike plaster do I not need to put a keying agent on the walls? With the bonding coat still on, I would suggest you dot and dab some plasterboard over the top with some Dri-Wall adhesive. -------------------- BAL Product Support Technician- Scotland 07970 450 200 |
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Dec 6 2009, 07:50 PM
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#6
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 2-February 09 From: yorkshire Member No.: 1,102 |
With the bonding coat still on, I would suggest you dot and dab some plasterboard over the top with some Dri-Wall adhesive. I unfortunately don't have that option James, as I'm only tiling splashbacks and would therefore have to board all the wall where it hasnt any units and skim the top half to be painted. It's browning Gaz. |
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Dec 6 2009, 07:57 PM
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#7
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 1,308 Joined: 25-March 09 From: Cumbernauld Member No.: 1,825 |
You can't go directly on to the browning though. A couple of options are to get some sort of finish coat onto it, or remove it from the area where you will be tiling then either render or dot and dab. -------------------- BAL Product Support Technician- Scotland 07970 450 200 |
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Dec 6 2009, 08:05 PM
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#8
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 2-February 09 From: yorkshire Member No.: 1,102 |
You can't go directly on to the browning though. A couple of options are to get some sort of finish coat onto it, or remove it from the area where you will be tiling then either render or dot and dab. My intention was to re skim and allow to dry, but time is running out for Xmas so hoped I'd be able to render it. Why can't the render be used on browning if somehow I can eliminate the posible reaction? |
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Dec 6 2009, 08:09 PM
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#9
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Administrators Posts: 1,308 Joined: 25-March 09 From: Cumbernauld Member No.: 1,825 |
You can't go directly on to the browning though. A couple of options are to get some sort of finish coat onto it, or remove it from the area where you will be tiling then either render or dot and dab. My intention was to re skim and allow to dry, but time is running out for Xmas so hoped I'd be able to render it. Why can't the render be used on browning if somehow I can eliminate the posible reaction? I think it has to do with the stability of the browning aswell as the ettrignite. I suppose one option would be to skim it with a fast set plaster - like the joint fillers (premium 90, velvet etc) That would set much faster than finish coat. Just mind and give it a good coat of APD before tiling. -------------------- BAL Product Support Technician- Scotland 07970 450 200 |
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Dec 6 2009, 08:14 PM
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#10
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 2-February 09 From: yorkshire Member No.: 1,102 |
I think it has to do with the stability of the browning aswell as the ettrignite. I suppose one option would be to skim it with a fast set plaster - like the joint fillers (premium 90, velvet etc) That would set much faster than finish coat. Just mind and give it a good coat of APD before tiling. Thanks James. |
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