<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1" ?>
<rss version="2.0">
<channel>
	<title>TilerWorld Blog</title>
	<description>Guest Stream</description>
	<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/forums.html</link>
	<pubDate>Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:24:05 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>60</ttl>
	<item>
		<title>tiler world stickers and grout sample cards</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/tiler-world-stickers-gro-t918.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Alex ive noticed a lot of us guys on here asking about getting some of these and as yet nothing. I spoke to danny about it today and he toid me they are in production. I know you have alot to do etc etc but surely how long does it take to get some sticker printed?<br /><br />point 2. can you supply me with some grout sample cards. i dont mean printed versions as they do not match the grout very well, something like what mapie do actaul peices of card with grout stuck to them. <br /><br />This would make a huge difference to me. Im always going on to the customer about how great Bal is leaders in the market etc etc and then when it comes to grout choice i dont have any sample cards. local ctd doesnt have any either. <br /><br />hope you can help]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 16:38:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/tiler-world-stickers-gro-t918.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>How Much BAL?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-t275.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just to get an idea how much you all love BAL, and if there's any one thing we can improve to increase that %, then let us know.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2009 22:24:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-t275.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Anhydrite (Calcium Sulphate sceeds )</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Anhydrite-Calcium-Sulpha-t380.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<b>CALCIUM  SULPHATE SCREEDS </b><br />BS 8204-7 : 2003<br /><br />The above standard is the code of practice which covers pumpable, self-smoothing screeds.  The salient points to watch out for are listed below and should be used in conjunction with the other codes of practice that are relevant, specifically BS 5385 Parts 1 to 5, taking into consideration particularly any recommendations for specific conditions, i.e. Part 4 1992.<br /><br />•	Any area to be screeded should be enclosed within a weatherproof structure and any opening should be covered.<br /><br />•	The temperature range of applying a screed should be between 5°C and 30°C.   The storage of materials prior to laying should be at temperatures between 5°C and 30°C; ideally between 5°C and 20°C.<br /><br />•	Areas to be laid should be free of draughts and be protected for at least 24 hours.  <br /><br />•	The Relative Humidity should not fall below 50% RH therefore reducing the risk of rapid early drying.  <br /><br />•	Any laitance should be removed to allow the screed to dry more quickly. (Normally using a sanding machine).  <br /><br />•	The installation should be protected against ingress of water or rain.  Accelerated drying of calcium sulphate based pumpable self-smoothing screeds may be used once the screed is at least 7 days old.  All traffic should be kept off the screed until the screed has hardened sufficiently in accordance with the manufacturers’ recommendations and should be protected from contamination and damage from any following trades.<br /><br />•	Levelling screeds should be protected until the flooring is applied.<br /><br /><b>MOISTURE CONTENT</b><br />•	Using a *hair hygrometer 75% RH <br />•	A CM tester (carbide bomb) can be used <br />•	Or oven drying @ 40°C.<br />*NB these results can be misleading<br /><br />Note:  Typical values at which it would be permissible to lay moisture sensitive floor finishes are 0.5% w/w moisture content, for impermeable floors and 1% w/w for more permeable floors such as carpet tiles etc.<br /><br /><b>When the screed is ready for tiling we would recommend the following application procedure:</b><br /><br />1.	Apply 2 coats of neat BAL Prime APD, allowing the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.<br />2.	When the above prime coats have dried, tiles can be fixed in a 3-6mm solid bed (i.e. ensuring as far as possible, no voids are left beneath the tiles) of BAL Single Part Flexible or BAL Rapidset Flexible(tiles up to 300mm x 300mm) or BAL PTB FLEXIBLE(tiles over 300mm x 300mm).<br />3.	When the adhesive has fully cured, the joints between the tiles should be filled with a suitable grout, e.g. BAL Superflex Wide Joint Grout.  (NB A minimum joint width of 3mm is recommended).<br /><br />NB If underfloor heating is incorporated into the above screed, the heating should be fully commissioned prior to tile fixing, i.e. the temperature should be taken up to 25°C at no more than 5°C per day, left at 25°C for 3 days then allowed to cool back down to below 15°C.  After tiling and grouting is completed, the heating should remain switched off for a further two weeks before switching back on.  The temperature should be taken up to 25°C at no more than 5°C per day.<br /><br />Movement joints will be required in this installation. These joints should be a minimum of 6mm in cross-section and may be filled with a suitable silicone sealant.<br /><br />Movement joints in the floor tiling should be incorporated as outlined in British Standard BS 5385: Part 3: 7.1.6.4 2007 which states:<br />7.1.6.4 Intermediate joints <br />The need for intermediate joints between perimeter joints depends on the dimensions of the floor; for example, with the exception of those on suspended construction, in floors with less than 10 m between perimeter joints no intermediate joints are necessary but in larger floors as illustrated in Figures 2c, 2d, or 2e should be employed to divide the area into bays of size not greater than 10 m × 10 m. <br />On suspended floors, stress-relieving joints (see Figures 2c, 2d or 2e) should be inserted where flexing is likely to occur, e.g. over supporting walls or beams. <br /><br />For floors, which might be subjected to significant thermal changes, i.e. direct sunlight in atria, or under-floor heating etc., the floor area should be divided up by movement joints into bays of size not greater than 40 m2 with an edge length not greater than 8 m.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Mar 2009 19:40:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Anhydrite-Calcium-Sulpha-t380.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Why oh why do the cowboys get away with it ??</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/cowboys-t1006.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here's the spec viewed 10 days ago:<br /><br />Freshly bonded walls in very bad nick.<br />600x300 x 10 porcelain & Glass Mosaic border<br /><br />Advice to client:<br /><br />Dryline the walls to allow for weights and speed installation (also advised issues with bonding and plaster skim)- the plumbing still allows for the depth of plasterboard<br />Tank Shower area<br />Use dog-tooth method to fix Mosaic border<br />Fix tiles with combination of SPF & Mosaic fix<br />Jobs a good un <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> <br /><br />Received reply today along the following lines:<br /><br /><i>Thanks very much for quote, shame we didn't speak with you earlier as our whole refurb has been one nightmare after another. Decided to get plasterer back last week to put his work right. Decided to use another tiler as he was available earlier and started today. It's just a shame that we cannot use the mosaic border as tiler advises they are thinner than porcelain tiles so can't be fixed. </i><br /><br />So here we have a 'tiler' fixing large format porcelain to freshly skimmed walls and also advising client that 'mosaics can't be fixed'. I've already explained issues to client both verbally and in my Estimate. I'm not disappointed to have lost the work and unlike some don't take 'rejection' personally but there are two small kids in this house. I replied and thanked her for letting me know and wished her all the best with the remaining refurb works.<br /><br />Bloody cowboys <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":mad:" border="0" alt="mad.gif" /> !]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2009 18:01:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/cowboys-t1006.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wreckless tilers work</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Wreckless-tilers-work-t467.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<u><b>The Walls</b></u><br />This week I was called to a suspected failure of our adhesives. On inspection, all the wall tiles had totally de-bonded from the background. I had my suspicions about the fixing method and was given permission to remove one....only grout is stopping the inevitable cascade. I told the owner of the house to remove the tiles ASAP and keep his toddler out of the room until safe.<br /><br />     <b>Spot fixing onto emulsion paint</b><br /><br /><img src="http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7815/hayhurst05.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><img src="http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6628/hayhurst08.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><img src="http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/9286/hayhurst09.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><br />This type of dangerous workmanship disregarding peoples welfare should be punishable by law IMO.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 22:55:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Wreckless-tilers-work-t467.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>How not to tile a floor.. Cutting corners (and poor finish)</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/tile-floor-Cutting-t245.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[No words needed...  (also posted in the comedy section)<br /><br /><img src="http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/worst_tiling.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><b><!--coloro:#696969--><span style="color:#696969"><!--/coloro-->Enough said...<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--></b>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2009 17:42:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/tile-floor-Cutting-t245.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bal Pst Vacancy</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-Pst-Vacancy-t1394.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<div align='center'><!--sizeo:4--><span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><b>Product Support Technician Vacancy<br />South East Region</b><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--></div><br /><br /><!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Building Adhesives Limited is a leader in the building products markets, manufacturing and marketing a range of adhesives, sealants and coatings under the BAL and Dunlop brands.<br /><br />We are currently looking for a Product Support Technician to join our Field Technical team reporting to the Technical Director. The designated area includes Norfolk, Cambs, Suffolk, Herts, Beds, & Essex.. The main purpose of the role is to promote, train and provide technical support to current and potential customers in the usage of the Company’s range of tile fixing products.<br /><br />You will be responsible for:<br /><br />Providing technical sales support to current and potential customers.<br /><br />Visit tiling projects and offer advice and specifications to contractors and tile end users.<br /><br />Provide support service for customers where products / usage complaints have arisen, to provide solutions.<br /><br />Provide and or support training programmes for Colleges and Independent Training Centres organised by you and the Training Centre Manager as appropriate.<br /><br />To apply please forward your c.v and a brief note explaining why you would like to work for BAL, by post or by E-mail to<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><br /><br /><div align='center'><!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Emma Aust, Head of Human Resources<br />Building Adhesives Ltd<br />Longton Rd<br />Trentham<br />Stoke-on-Trent<br />ST4 8JB<br /><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--></div><br /><br /><div align='center'><!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->E-Mail:-   <a href="mailto:EAust@building-adhesives.com">EAust@building-adhesives.com</a><br /><br /><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 19:35:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-Pst-Vacancy-t1394.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bedding Up.</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bedding-Up-t1267.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/branty1uk/MrNijhawan.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br />Niceeeeeeeeee!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 18:59:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bedding-Up-t1267.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bonding and quickset render mix</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bonding-quickset-render-t726.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[How about this one guys.<br /><br />I supplied 4 bags of quickset render for a plasterer to bond some walls i will be tiling on Tuesday in a bathroom (customer had already booked the plasterer who originally was going to bond it until i sugested otherwise) I don't know him.<br /><br />I just phoned him to see how he finds the stuff and his feedback was very positive. He then said that on the last little mix he did he needed to thicken it up slightly for a part of the wall he had to build out and added a little bit of plaster to the mix!! <br /><br />I couldn't be bothered to argue about it as we had already had a row when i first told the customer that i can't tile directly onto bonding and even if i coul;d it wouldn't be dry on time.<br /><br />He says it was only on a small part of the wall and that it has still dried rock hard.<br /><br />Have i got anything to worry about here or do i suggest that it needs to be replaced??<br /><br />tj]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2009 12:24:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bonding-quickset-render-t726.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>mosaics and big tiles</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mosaics-big-tiles-t681.html</link>
		<description>Doing a job 600x350 mm tiles sq edge,brick work patern with a mosaic boarder. Walls a bit out and it seems to be hard work getting everything flat. Has anybody got an easy way or do we all struggle, its a marble boarder little squares. can somebody invent a ridged natural stone boarder, that would save a few f..ks</description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2009 19:01:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mosaics-big-tiles-t681.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bal Best Value</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-t1179.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[if you haven't picked up your copy from your stockist yet here is an electronic version...... You will see that Distributors have new prices on the Supercover range, BAL PTB, RSF White and Ultrabase<br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 19:37:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-t1179.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Cheapest Price or Best Value?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Cheapest-Price-Value-t112.html</link>
		<description>Probably the first thing you need to learn in business..... what is it that wins me the job... let us know what you think in the poll and tell us how you set yourself out from the crowd</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Feb 2009 19:55:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Cheapest-Price-Value-t112.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Does this floor have to have Ditra matting</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/floor-Ditra-matting-t1125.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone. We've chosen to quote for tiling a floor in a 300 year old cottage that is currently being renovated and expanded. It is approximately 125m square in total and the majority will be one level although it might slope between rooms; I am expecting that we would be laying it as one floor. The floor will be wet underfloor heated with a 75mm dry screed on top. I asked about the screed and was told that it was "probably" going to be dry because that's what the same company used last time. <br />The info regarding the tiles is "the floor finish throughout the ground floor (including the Drawing Room) is to be 15mm thick limestone stone tiles from Turkey (ref: Applestone by Boniti – size to be confirmed but max 600 x 600mm). Quote to lay the tiles and to include for<br />• The supply and laying of Ditra crack control mesh in the bedding.<br />• Twice sealing stone with Lithothin prior to laying and following grouting<br />• Supply of bedding and grouting material to approved samples.<br /> <br />My questions are; with the correct tile fixing materials used, why is there a need for the matting? Simon, my best tiler says that with Ditra matting the volume of tile adhesive nearly doubles so, is ther a calculation for this that might get us anywhere near the likely required amount for quote purposes? Is PTB white the correct material either way? we would be expecting to use 5mm spacers and obviously a flexible wide joint grout.<br /><br />I'll be checking in over the weekend so feel free to ask any questions.<br /><br />TIA <br />Chris]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 13:53:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/floor-Ditra-matting-t1125.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Who prefers porcelain?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/prefers-porcelain-t272.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Anyone prefer porcelain to ceramic?I know from a fitter's point of view they are harder to work with,but from a seller's point of view,they look far superior to the majority of ceramics.Some of the new porcelain designs I have seen recently are cutting edge and simply stunning.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2009 22:07:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/prefers-porcelain-t272.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Leeds Tiler Named As Leading Professional</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Leeds-Tiler-Named-Leadin-t1296.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><b>Leeds tiler named as leading professional</b><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><br /><br />Russell Tate, of Russell Tate Ceramics, has won the ‘Tiler of the Month’ accolade from www.tilerworld.com, the leading free web site for tilers and their customers. The Rothwell-based tiler, who has worked all over the UK and Europe for such companies as BMW and Ferrari, also works with shop-fitting companies and carries out domestic projects. He was selected for the quality of his tiling and high standards of customer service, shown by reviews posted on www.tilerworld.com alongside positive customer ratings.<br />	<br />Customers agree with the award. Leanne S., in Leeds, said: “Russ executed a hotel-quality finish in a quick and efficient manner. No doubt, the best in Leeds.” Derek L., in York, said: “Job completed with minimum fuss and disruption, but maximum quality and efficiency.”<br /><br />Russell was modest about the recognition, preferring to talk about TilerWorld itself. He said: “It is great to have a web site dedicated to professional tilers. It helps you to stand out from the rest. Potential customers searching for a tiler can instantly get a clear feel for the tilers in their area, which can only help them to select a tiler more confidently.”<br /><br />Every customer using a rated tiler from www.tilerworld.com can submit their own rating, with the incentive of a free prize draw. Each month, one wins the value of their tiling up to a maximum of £1,000. The rating system is a key reason for www.tilerworld.com‘s continuing growth. It lets a consumer list professional tilers in their area and compare rating from previous customers. They can request quotes for their tiling project from up to five tilers. More than 5,000 fixers appear on the site, with more joining every day. As well as being able to show customer ratings, each is also able to upload photographs of their work. The site is free to use for both tilers and their customers.<br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 14:07:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Leeds-Tiler-Named-Leadin-t1296.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Warped porcelain!</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Warped-porcelain-t295.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Lads I need some help on this one. I'm on this other web site called www.askaboutmoney.com and there is a thread on it with a guy asking who's to blain for the floor being f***ed. I replied saying the Tiler should have said it to him that the tiles were warped. <br /><br />Anyway this other guy comes on saying it was the floor that caused it and the Tiler should have levelled the floor. So I said he cleary doesn't know what he's on about cos he's not a Tiler and that there is 40% of tiles sold warped and that shops don't recommend laying 60/60 porcelain in the brick pattern. Then this clown comes back saying he has plenty of reason to comment on it because 60% of tilers are rip of merchants. <br /><br />Anyone else want to go onto this site and back me up. a**hole has me realy annoyed now.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Mar 2009 20:27:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Warped-porcelain-t295.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Min depth of concrete</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Min-depth-concrete-t902.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<br />Guys,<br /><br />Long story this one - submitted a quote a few weeks back with my recommendation (flood an area of 10sq/m) with slc to a depth of 10mm. The sand & cement floor (as confirmed by client) already had a layer of slc when I lifted the carpet. Client has just sent me an e-mail advising that his builder has decided that it's too deep for slc (cheers mate, don't bother asking the tiler!) and gone ahead and put a 'strong mix' of concrete on top to a depth of 12mm. Client drops me an e-mail to let me know - and also notices that the floor is very dusty now and should he paint it for me <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":ph34r:" border="0" alt="ph34r.gif" /> .<br /><br />Well, I don't need advise on the paint bit but without seeing this, has the builder gone and screwed up my floor with such a thin layer of concrete? If further info is needed - should I go and find out what the builders definition of strong is (i.e his mix)???<br /><br /><br />Andrew]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Aug 2009 16:44:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Min-depth-concrete-t902.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Tiler on TV</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiler-TV-t993.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Funny hows things happen. Not sure if any of you guys have seen one of the make over programs called Cowboy builders<br /><br />It had Melinda Messenger and Dominic Littlewood on it. She would put the house right after the cowboys had been in, screwed it all up and run off with the rubs, while he would go after the builder. New series has Sheree Murphy (emmerdale and for any Leeds fans, Harry Kewells misses)<br /><br />The littleone loved it, so I had to watch (no particular blond reason) Anyway, Me and my collegue have just helped out on Episode 1 of the new series, and were so impressed to ask us to follow them around as part of the make over team for the remainder of the series. Next stop is Leicester, then Doncaster. After that not sure. First shoot was St Margrets in Twickenham.<br /><br />Its just as manic as you see on the box. That said, great laugh, people and super exposure as you are put onto the Channel 5 website for the show]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Sep 2009 21:01:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiler-TV-t993.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>GMat Decoupling Mat</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/GMat-Decoupling-Mat-t1022.html</link>
		<description>Has anyone seen the Genesis GMat Decoupling Mat?  I would appreciate your comments and thoughts on the product.</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:03:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/GMat-Decoupling-Mat-t1022.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Uncoupling Membranes</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Uncoupling-Membranes-t1298.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[have been asked to price for approx 55m2 of marble flooring in a domestic situation.<br />i have been informed that house has been built on a single slab construction not a traditional footing and foundations.<br /><br />this slab had then been screeded.<br /><br />largest room size is approx 22m2 joined by a hallway then leading into a kitchen also approx 22m2 so not any run where tiles extend past 7metres in one go.<br /><br />i noticed that there was on crack in the screed running approx 2.5 mtrs in length across a room, it is at most 1.5mm <br /><br />house has been built for 8 months so all screeds dry and most of the movement has happened. <br /><br />would it be advisable to lay ditra matting first or lay straight onto screed.<br /><br /><br />any ideas would be appreciated thanks<br /><br />if ditra is being advised any body know of any other membrnes that offer the same quality im currently being quoted £544.71 inc VAT for 2x 30m2 rolls]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 15:14:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Uncoupling-Membranes-t1298.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>underfloor heating</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/underfloor-heating-t864.html</link>
		<description>hi, i am working on a job and the guy wants to lay underfloor heating on to marine ply is this ok. it has already gone wrong once. cold in places and to hot in others. ????????</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Aug 2009 15:48:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/underfloor-heating-t864.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>SPLASHBACK</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/SPLASHBACK-t929.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I lost this job on price - now I am back there tomorrow to put it right....<br /><br />When I went to see it though I took some pics for posterity.  <br /><br />This was a plasterer (a good plasterer to be fair) who also happened to "do a bit of tiling".<br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fimg156.imageshack.us%2Fgal.php%3Fg%3Ddsc03350f.jpg' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/img156_imageshack_us');">http://img156.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc03350f.jpg</a><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/SPLASHBACK-t929.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>skimmed plaster board.</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/skimmed-plaster-board-t237.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'd like to know is it better to tile straight onto the slab or wait til its plastered? what way is stronger? or will hold the most weight? what about wbp ply?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2009 19:36:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/skimmed-plaster-board-t237.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Gaz - are you out there?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Gaz-there-t941.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Gaz,<br /><br />Thought you when on hols? After speaking with Tech today, Dave suggested I get an opinion from you (he didn't know you were on leave). Got the voicemail message so gave up. Shall I run it by you on ere?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Sep 2009 19:20:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Gaz-there-t941.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[As Bad As It Get's]]></title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bad-Get-s-t1349.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Have been tiling a takeaway floor last few nights. There was another tiler in fixing tiles in the food prep area, about 30sq metres.<br /><br />Existing ceramic tiles on walls very uneven,new tiles are 600 x 300,using tubbed adhesive with a 12mm square notch trowel<br />AND<br /> He pva'd all the wall tiles first as he said "That will help them stick better", needless to say 5 of the tiles have already fallen off.  <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 10:15:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bad-Get-s-t1349.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Can I Use?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Use-t1329.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Small floors in en-suites. 3 & 5 metres<br /><br />18mm T&G ply directly on joists (new build)<br /><br />Am i within the boundaries of Single Part FastFlex without ovrboarding????]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 15:46:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Use-t1329.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Green Star</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Green-Star-t1112.html</link>
		<description>Anyone got any idea what the RRP of Green Star is?.</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:57:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Green-Star-t1112.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>SPOT-FIXING</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/SPOT-FIXING-t147.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src="http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4933/spotfixedrapidflexionto.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br />Zamora Polished Porcelain, kitchen, Dining Room, Utility Room, combination of 300 x 300 & 300 x 600 mm tiles all laid this way onto OSB ( Oriented Strand Board ). OSB is not recognised as a board to tile to, it is for shuttering work to concrete. The adhesive was BAL Rapid Set Flexible and Superflex w/j Grout. This cost the customer £3000 and would be lucky to salvage the tiles. When she phoned the tiler his mobile phone was unavailable, I guess he got a new sim card for a tenner.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Mar 2009 20:21:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/SPOT-FIXING-t147.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Other new products</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/products-t999.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Got a leaflet through my door yesterday........<br />For a new product from Stonefix... CI75, fix ditra etc to anhydrite without priming ! Saving cost of primer & labour...<br />Bloomin expensive,around £270.00 for 8 litre tub,however covers very large area at 1mm to 2mm depth of bed !!<br />Not intending buying any,but wondered what the guys at BAL thought of it ??]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 21:03:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/products-t999.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>adhesive prices</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/adhesive-prices-t558.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<br /> ive got a question for the bal boys??bal spf white c2te=£25per 20kg.another brand of adhesive which is also a c2t adhesive and comes with full specification<br /> and a 10 year gaurantee=£10.50per 20kg.can someone shed some light on this for me????.why the big price diffrence. <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":wacko:" border="0" alt="wacko.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2009 21:02:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/adhesive-prices-t558.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Painted walls</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Painted-walls-t1116.html</link>
		<description>Come somebody please tell me, if painted walls are sound, once keyed up and scratched will APD prior to using cement based adhesive have any effect on the paint?  Cheers, Powelly</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:55:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Painted-walls-t1116.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>plumbers</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/plumbers-t304.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[bathroom i was starting last week, looks like the plumber could'nt be bothered to slip an elbow on so he bent the pipe to reach the flexy coupling to the toilet.<br />pedastal on left, toilet on right<br /><br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/post-a28-Photo-0004.jpg.html'>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/post-a28-Photo-0004.jpg.html</a><br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2009 19:13:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/plumbers-t304.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Ditra Or No Ditra?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Ditra-Ditra-t1351.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've been asked to fix 42sqm of Jerusalem Gold (900x600 / 600x600 / 300x600) to a heated screed. <br />This being expensive and very luverly stone I of course want to do a brilliant job, plus it's for the parents of the plumber who refers plenty of work my way. <br />I have planned on using PTB Flexi but this is one of those rare instances where I wish I'd never heard of Ditra.  <br /><br />The screed not anhydrite and is nice and level.  It will be heated up fully and cooled before fitting.  <br /><br />Why should I use Ditra?  Why shouldn't I bother?  <br /><br />3 rooms involved - main room and two smaller rooms - usual expansion joints at thresholds.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:44:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Ditra-Ditra-t1351.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>How to ruin beautiful tiles</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/ruin-beautiful-tiles-t783.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I was asked to sort out a bathroom this week for a bathroom / plumbing Co. <br />They had employed a "tiler" and forgot to check on him. <br />The photos are from my phone so not brilliant.  <br />He used Granfix acrylic adhesive for EVERYTHING.  Not one wall has seen a trowel.  He used a pointing trowel to blob addy onto the tiles.<br />At least he used 6mm ply and PVA for the floor though!  2 weeks and they are lifting already. <br />I genuinely feel sorry for the couple who own the house.  They supplied the tiles, all top quality stuff from Porcelanosa. <br />The bathroom Co should have checked him out but they have been screwed over too. <br />The daughter in the house tore her palm on the chrome tile trim.  It was lethal (before I filed it down).<br />There is also around 30sqm of floor tiles in the kitchen, all lifting.  All heated too! <br />The lady of the house honestly got upset when she came home and saw the bathroom I had been working in.  Not coz it was rubbish though! <br />She said "why couldn't they have sent you in the 1st place?!"  Left my card and explained that I could only help out for that one day as a favour for my bro-in-law. <br />Also talked in detail about what has gone wrong and why.  <br />Heartbreaking really  <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" /><br />I wish there was a way to stop twonks like this from ruining our collective reputations. <br /><br />(I managed to get all the clickable thumbs in this post but it won't let me start the post with them! Too many images apparantly!?)<br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fs802.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy308%2Fdeelam%2F' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/s802_photobucket_com');">http://s802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/deelam/</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:06:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/ruin-beautiful-tiles-t783.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>MDF</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/MDF-t980.html</link>
		<description>Been to look at a job today. The bath is set into a timber frame clad top and side with 10/12mm MDF and tiled with ceramics. Some of the tiles on the surround and side are loose which I presume is down to the mdf. Can the mdf be primed with APD or SBR and tiles refixed? Client doesnt really want the bath removed and cladding replaced with Hardie or similar. There are a few other issues due to fixing errors such as grouted corners etc.</description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Sep 2009 18:32:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/MDF-t980.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>crack in grout</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/crack-grout-t839.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I recently tiled a floor and a crack has appeared running the full length of one grout joint. I haven't had this problem before. The floor was a floating chipboard and seemed as rigid as they get. The longest run was approx. 5M I overboarded with 22mm WBP ply to get required height, well screw fixed and joints staggered. I left approx. 10mm + perimeter expansion. I used Single part FF but assumed I could have used something like Goldstar+AD1. I used widejoint grout+AD1 1:1.<br />I'm waiting for a phone callwhen the customer notices. Could anybody advise me on possible causes?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:02:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/crack-grout-t839.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>unsupported bath causes problems</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/unsupported-bath-problem-t234.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[this is a job i was on in dublin last week. the bath was being held up by 3 legs under it only and caused major hassle. the tile were all but jointed and fell of the walls because of the dampness creeping in behind the tiles by the bath seal.<br /><br />needless to say it broke my heart to make it right. i put in a new bath and got it perfect with the sealux seals and proper adhesive. thanks bal.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2009 18:14:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/unsupported-bath-problem-t234.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Screed Spike Roller</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Screed-Spike-Roller-t1209.html</link>
		<description>I was just wondering if anyone has got one or used one and if there worth the money</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:28:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Screed-Spike-Roller-t1209.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Single Part Fast Flex - same spec, easier to use & 33% more!]]></title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Single-Part-Fast-Flex-t803.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><b>Tilers’ favourite Fastflex now available as single part</b><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><br /><br /><br />Professional tilers nationwide will welcome the launch of BAL Single Part Fastflex, which offers three major advantages over the original version of their favourite rapid-setting, flexible floor adhesive. Its key benefit is that it guarantees to deliver the flexural qualities needed, which may not always be the case with two-part flexible adhesives. Its properties are identical to those of the two-part product: rubber-like flexibility, with water and frost resistance, from an adhesive which is ready for grouting after just five hours.<br /><br />Alex Underwood, BAL Brand Manager, said: “Getting the full specified flexibility from a two-part adhesive requires exact mixing of the powder and the liquid, so that the correct proportion of polymer is included. It only needs a slight pre-mix spillage or other loss of the liquid component for such an adhesive to be less flexible than the application requires. With the new BAL Single Part Fast Flex, uncertainty is removed because it will always include exactly the right level of polymer. The fixer who likes to do a job properly could not pick a better product.”<br /><br />The most obvious benefit to fixers is that they do not need to store and transport both a sack of powder and a bottle of liquid. As BAL Single Part Fast Flex is offered in 5kg and 12.5kg sacks, fixers also have an ideal choice of sizes for differing jobs as well.<br /><br />Having a single sack also reduces the possibility of project delays arising from human error. “If both powder and liquid components of a two-part adhesive are stored together,” said Alex Underwood, “it should be almost impossible to take the wrong combination to the site. Mistakes can happen, though, and nobody wants to realise when they arrive at a job that they have to leave again immediately to go and get the right powder or liquid. With new BAL Single Part Fast Flex, this can never happen." <br /><br />The major benefit for fixers is the added value that BAL continue to offer. "What's more the 12.5kg Single Part Fast Flex has over 33% more coverage for the same price as the 12.5kg 2-part version. Simply it works to exactly the same spec, is easier to use and you get a third more for your money!” <br /><br />BAL Single Part Fast Flex is ideal for tiling both interior and exterior floors which may be subject to movement or vibration, such as with timber substrates. It can be used as an isolating, anti-fracture underlay for ceramic tile and offers improved sound reduction. It is suitable for use with a wide variety of tile types, including fully vitrified and glass, mosaics, some natural stone and porcelain. <br /><br />The product is also part of BAL’s initiative to help provide ‘greener’ builds as it provides a more eco-friendly option, with more than 10 per cent of its raw materials having been recycled, highlighted by the new ‘Go Greener’ icon.<br /><br />BAL Single Part Fast Flex is available now from almost 500 outlets nationwide and, as with all BAL products, carries a full 25-year guarantee.<br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2009 10:21:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Single-Part-Fast-Flex-t803.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Setting out !!!</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Setting-t660.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Setting out, how important is it to you guys, what methods do you use ?<br />Curious, have my own ways but interested how you do it !!!!<br /><br />Sock it to me !!!<br /><br />P.S I my view this is one of the most important, if not the very most important part of our job !!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Jun 2009 14:11:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Setting-t660.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>single part fastflex</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/single-part-fastflex-t822.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Thank you Danny for introducing to me the Single Part Fastflex.  It is a very good product and easy to use.  I will definitely use it for my next job.<br /><br />Kind regards.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:10:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/single-part-fastflex-t822.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Frozen Whitestar</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Frozen-Whitestar-t1405.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[As per the title really. <br /><br />Stupidly left two new tubs of White Star in the van. <br />Noticed them today and they are like concrete.  <br />Have they now "had it?" <br />Is it wrong to defrost them and return them to Topps for a refund?!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Jan 2010 21:56:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Frozen-Whitestar-t1405.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[here's a nice one....]]></title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/here-s-nice-one-t928.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I got asked to go and finish this job off - the guy (who for legal reasons will remain nameless) had started the work and run out of time.<br /><br />This is a "professional".  A director of a bathroom installation firm who decided to do his own bathroom. <br /><br />Tiles are 40x40 polished black porcs and 60x30 glass (all of dubious quality).<br /><br />Adhesive used is Travis Perkins ready mixed acrylic - lots of it!!!<br /><br />After pulling 3 tiles off with my little pinkies I walked away from this one. <br /><br />He really didn't see the need to remove and start again - simply wanted me to finish the work. <br /><br />(big sigh................. <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" /> )<br /><br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fimg528.imageshack.us%2Fgal.php%3Fg%3Ddsc03419e.jpg' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/img528_imageshack_us');">http://img528.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc03419e.jpg</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:09:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/here-s-nice-one-t928.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Tiling a Balcony</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiling-Balcony-t884.html</link>
		<description>We just tiled an external balcony of over 30m2 with a bathroom and 3 bedrooms underneath. I should be able to post pictures soon and if anyone wants to chat about it with a viw=ew to them having to do one, i would be happy to share some of the problems we overcame.</description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Aug 2009 16:50:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiling-Balcony-t884.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Another next</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/-t990.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[starting another next tommorow night got 750m2 to tile on the floor plus 5 columns and about 50 m2 of walls.<br /><br />ive got 5 days to finish it wish me luck.<br /><br />TJ if your about give me a call and come have a look get your hands dirty for a change]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:03:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/-t990.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bal Wp1</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-Wp1-t1198.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[can you apply wp1 directly onto old glass mosaics?<br /><br />if not is there anything to apply first ie slurry coat then tanking?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 16:37:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Bal-Wp1-t1198.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Chrome Marks On Polished Porcelain</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Chrome-Marks-Polished-Po-t1284.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I need your help and suggestions please...<br /><br />I have been called back to a job I left in a perfect condition.  <br />A furniture delivery team have dragged chrome feet sofas across the polished white porcelain and it has left chrome ingrained in the surface of the tile. <br />Definitley not scratched as I can feel the chrome is proud of the surface rather than below it. <br /><br />Any ideas as to how I can remove the marks? <br />I would guess the chrome has "welded" into the tile due to heat/friction. <br /><br />Any solution to avoid digging out 7 tiles, avoiding the ufh cables etc???<br /><br />Many thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:42:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Chrome-Marks-Polished-Po-t1284.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Tiling over esisting tiles</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiling-esisting-tiles-t543.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Obviously trained tilers know about not tiling over certain substrates, wall papers etc but I sometimes here about wall tiles going over existing tiles.<br />Call me overly particular but I wont ever do this for safety reasons and think that this should be considered by British standards.<br /><br />A 10 yr old patch of 6" tiles for example with possibly a deteriorated adhesive bed isnt going to necessarily take the strain of new, larger, heavier <br />tiles (porcelain) being fitted over the top.  The existing tiles may test as sound but add heavier weight to gravities natural pull and that could be a tile or many dropping down onto someones head in their bath, maybe not immediately, it could take months or longer but the fixer would be accountable.<br /><br />I would consider floor tiles if they are solid and depending on the customers limitations for a more thorough job but never the wall.<br /><br />Ive have lost jobs, usually from less proud plumbers who replace a bathroom without removing tiles first and then want new tiles added to  <br />pretty up there job, I believe the plumbers usual request is to 'SLAP the new tiles up over the old'.<br /><br />What are you thoughts?<br /><br />Si]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:04:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Tiling-esisting-tiles-t543.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Misaligned</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Misaligned-t148.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src="http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6793/oopsw.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br />I spotted this, (well it smacked me in the face) at a holiday camp in Devon... <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Mar 2009 20:31:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Misaligned-t148.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>how much movement in 2 part ff</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/movement-2-part-ff-t985.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[assuming that you fix 2 part ff to a sand cement screed with has no movement and fix a porcelain tile into this adhesive, how much movement within the adhesive would be expected with lets say a 14st man standing on the tile with a 5 mm bed, 10mm bed, 15mm bed and 20mm bed.<br /><br />yes i know you wouldnt use it in this instance but i just want to know how much movemnet is within the adhesive its self not the substrate, at given bed thicknesses.<br /><br />cheers.<br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:11:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/movement-2-part-ff-t985.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Grout for Geometrics</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Grout-Geometrics-t596.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello, what would you fellas at BAL recommend for grouting dust pressed tiles fixed to Balco board? I've used single part fastflex to fix them. The joints are 1-2mm.<br /><br />Many thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2009 19:24:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Grout-Geometrics-t596.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>NICE TILING</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/NICE-TILING-t921.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[nice ?<br /><br />restuarant toilet tiling i found whilst away]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:01:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/NICE-TILING-t921.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Spot fixing of the highest order</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Spot-fixing-highest-ord-t965.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Went to do a quote at the begining of year to look at a floor that was cracking up. Aparently job was done by B&Q subbies.<br /><br />Anyway it was quite obvious what the problem was and I relied to client. Anyway some 8 months on I am doing the job and thought you might like to see the efforts!<br />Just to add to the hash, it was 6mm limestone. And guess how long the section near the door lasted - 3 weeks.<br /><br />It just grates when we are out there putting in hard graft, quality work and asking a fair price for our skill and you get some masturbaters doing this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2009 20:55:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Spot-fixing-highest-ord-t965.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>NEW: Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/NEW-Schlueter-KERDI-BOAR-t1036.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[NEW from Schlüter-Systems, Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD is a unique universal substrate, structural panel, bonded waterproofing backer board.<br /><br />To find out more, visit Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD's dedicated website here: <a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kerdi-board.co.uk' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_kerdi-board_co_uk');">Tile Backer Board</a><br />For brochures, visit here: <a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kerdi-board.co.uk%2Fdownloads.aspx' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_kerdi-board_co_uk');">Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD Brochures</a><br /><br />Regards<br /><br /><br />Ian (Technical)]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:08:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/NEW-Schlueter-KERDI-BOAR-t1036.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Porcelain Grading</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Porcelain-Grading-t476.html</link>
		<description>Please can someone explain the grading system for porcelain tiles and its implications.</description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2009 17:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Porcelain-Grading-t476.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Its Official.... 365-Drills are nominated for TTA award.  For Porsadrill system</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Official-365-Drills-t286.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<b>Its Official....<br /></b><br />365DRILLS have been nominated for an <i>award </i>at the TTA <br /><br />for its PORSADRILL brand.<br /><br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fissuu.com%2Fhazellr%2Fdocs%2Fporsadrill_tta_nomination' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/issuu_com');">More information available here</a><br /><br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fissuu.com%2Fhazellr%2Fdocs%2Fporsadrill_tta_nomination' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/issuu_com');"><img src="http://www.365drills.com/jpgs/tta.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><br /><br />Best new innovation - likely to help the tile industry... FINALIST !<br /><br /><b><br /><br /></b>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:12:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Official-365-Drills-t286.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My first Vari Set job</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Vari-Set-job-t1111.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Have a 3m bathroom floor to tile on Thur. Plyed floor,self levelled over UFH.<br />All sanitaryware out.<br />My mission is to set out,do a bit of dry laying,2 or 3 small mixes,no additive. Tiles down then go for a fag & a cuppa,grout then home<br />Will let you know how it goes]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:14:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Vari-Set-job-t1111.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Not in the bath!!!!!</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/bath-t690.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This time I have a question,<br /><br />6'' x 6'' ceramics on bathroom wall - SPOTFIXED!!<br /><br />Covered bath with ply working board.<br /><br />Only thing holding them in place was the grout, took one off and 4 came with it and managed to hit the one square inch that the dam ply was not covering on the ceramic bath!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":angry:" border="0" alt="angry.gif" /> <br /><br />2mm wide dent taken glaze and top layer off the ceramic leaving red mark under, <br /><br />Tips for a fill if you would please.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:03:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/bath-t690.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>plaster skim coat</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/plaster-skim-coat-t1056.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[i know its a tiling forum but just wondered if any one knew can you skim over ceramics on a wall ?<br /><br />may be apply a slurry bonding coat first then skim any ideas can it be done. if it can walls will be painted only no more tiles on top.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2009 16:19:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/plaster-skim-coat-t1056.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Travertine</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Travertine-t843.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've a quote to do for fixing 300 x 450 Vein Cut Polished Travertine onto a screeded domestic hall floor. I've only fixed this stone to walls before. Do you think this is a suitable choice for this type of location and are there any points regarding the fixing of it in terms of adhesive choice or fixing procedures I should be aware of. I've fixed lots of tumbled and honed/filled of this size and larger before so I am aware of the general rules for travertine such as white adhesive, back skimming, sealing etc.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:45:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Travertine-t843.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>can you bunch of creative tilers help me</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/bunch-creative-tilers-t874.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[hi<br /><br />need help im setting up a ltd tiling company that will concentrate on just commercial tiling. will cover the whole of the uk and offer a fast track fitting service for large areas ( in excess of 400m2)<br /><br />i cant find the right name any one got any ideas. i would like something without tiling in it. ie bal etc etc<br /><br />want it to be short and sweet. if anyone has any ideas no matter how mad they may seem im willing to listen.<br /><br />thanks in advance <br /><br /><br />Andrew]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:36:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/bunch-creative-tilers-t874.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>How much adhesive???</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/adhesive-t569.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok then heres a good one for you<br /><br />how far does a bag of SPF go (m2) when laying Ditra with a thin bed solid bed trowel??????<br /><br />how far does a bag of SPF go (m2) when laying on Ditra (trav or porc) with a thick bed solid bed trowel for floors???????]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2009 18:49:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/adhesive-t569.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Lurkers?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Lurkers-t1518.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[At the bottom on the page you can see who’s viewing what. I often see many names of people who don’t post. They’ve gone to all the trouble to registering on the website and obviously log in to sniff around either to eye up the gossip or to learn stuff, but don’t seem to post! Hummm? Why???<br /><br />Here’s my take on why I post ....<br />I think tiling is a great subject. I’m one of those sad people who actually love the medium, years before I started tiling. I’ll hopefully be sticking down ceramics and stone in many years time, and I’ll still be learning stuff (from tillers on this forum and the techeads at BAL). I’ve been tiling quite a few years now , I’ve been pro-trained and done many tiling jobs – but still I know each time I post that I’m in real danger of asking a super dumb question and looking like a right muppet! ... but I don’t care. That’s how I’m gonna learn stuff, and if there’s one thing I’ve learnt over the years it’s that there’s always a different or better way, and sometimes no way is the best. Its only by posting and contributing to forums like this that we all move forwards together.<br /><br />So – there’s my open letter of why I post to forums like this and why I have no real issue with exposing myself to potential muppetry (hey Muppets are kinda cool anyway!).<br /><br />So lurkers – either post up and tell us why you lurk (although one posting and you’re no longer a lurker officially – humm) or come out from the shadows and post something really stupid, profound, intelligent, or just an hello then hang around. <br /><br />I know for sure that almost all the lurkers will have something intelligent to throw into the forum pot as this isn’t exactly an idiots forum (although I crept in under the radar)<br /><br />So (big challenge) lurkers – POST!!!  and surprise the living hell outa me.   (now if nobody posts i really will look dumb - ah well  <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" /> )    <br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 20:05:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Lurkers-t1518.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>advice for free</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/advice-free-t645.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[i'll try and keep this as brief as possible.<br /><br />tiled a swimming pool approx 150m2, grouted the pool using lets say not mapei or bal but one of the others. This choice was not based on cost just availability at that moment in time.<br /><br />unfortunatly we ran out of grout after 120m2. not normally a problem.<br /><br />went to same shop brought more grout and finished grouting, lovely job everyone happy.<br /><br />phone call 2 days later.<br /><br />last section of grout had dried a different colour, this was not noticed at grouting stage because when wet it appeared to be the same.<br /><br />lots of calls lots of thinking in the end called technical advice gave them the batch numbers and serial codes.<br /><br />i know what your thinking first lot was a different batch to the second lot.<br /><br />well you would be wrong.<br /><br />second lot of grout had same batch number as first.<br /><br />bags were taken away and analayised, what had happened is still unclear but the second lot of grout was not the right colour for the bag that it had been sold in. Ie grey grout sold in limestone bag.<br /><br />ok so at least we knew all we had to do now was remove the 30m2 of bad grout and regrout with the correct batch code.<br /><br />ohh that would have been so easy.<br /><br />no the COMPANY did not have any of that batch code left in th country, sorry thats a lie they had 3.5kg which the gave me for free. ( Thay were so kind)<br /><br />Ok so now ive got one pissed of client and one unfinished pool and not a lot of options.<br /><br />i went round and found all the grouts from all the manafactures i could that came close to the rest of the grout in the pool. The main problem i had here was i could match it very closely when the grout was dry but as soon as the grout in the area already grouted got wet it went very dark and i could not find anything that was a p[erfect match.<br /><br />client was by now very very unhappy. grout manafacturer did not really want a lot to do with it they offered me free adhesive as a form of compensation.<br /><br />Ok so what now rake out the rest of the grout i dont think so 130m2 of mosaic.<br /><br />tried acid washing to remove 3mm of existing grout and then regrout all with a new grout. Used hydrochloric acid 33% solution. Did nothing at all expect draw the colour from the grout.<br /><br />In the end i had to have a proper sit down with client and come to a comprimise. Have now grouted the bad section that has been removed with mapei 113 this is the closest we could get and have had to agree after 5 years of the pool being used when the chemicals etc in the water have attacked the grout, that i go back and acid wash again this time it should remove the top 3mm and then regrout with mapei all over the pool.<br /><br />Manafacture wss little to no help and sales rep that did come out, well i cant tell you whathappened ther.<br /><br />Moral, just because all products conform to so called regs some still go above and behond what is deemed neccassary and when you do have a problem there right their by your side fighting for you. <br /><br />Andrew<br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jun 2009 16:12:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/advice-free-t645.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Screed repair systems</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Screed-repair-systems-t1073.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have experience of screed repair systems / maybe someone from BAL Tech would like to give some input.<br /><br />I'm specing a job which has fractures in the screed .5mm - to a max of 3mm in a domestic kitchen , sand and cement. These fractures had previously caused tile failure at one point. I had intended to use an uncoupling membrane and after submitting pics to uncoupling membrane manufacturer, I was advised to fill cracks with an epoxy mortar / screed repair system. BAL don't offer one and the recommended manufacturer is out of stock. I called an alternative manufacturer and was advised that this seemed to be a 'waste of time' - if the problem was that severe, then by 'stitching' the cracks, the problem would only reoccur elsewhere. That view was seconded by someone else in the know <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> . When I go back to the uncoupling manufacturer, they say it is 'advisable'. Surely the uncoupling membrane can either deal with it or not? <br /><br />'Do I don't I or whats the point' is my question?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Sep 2009 22:48:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Screed-repair-systems-t1073.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Glass Mosaics</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Glass-Mosaics-t672.html</link>
		<description>Just won a job to fix 5 sq mtrs of 300 x 300 x 5 glass mosaics. The box says not to use a cement based adhesive so which BAL ready mixed would be suitable. Substrate is part plasterboard, part skimmed plaster. Also how much grout will this job require? The squares are about 25mm x 25mm with a grout joint of 2 or 3mm. Powerspec doesnt work with this format.</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2009 21:00:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Glass-Mosaics-t672.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Yeild?????</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Yeild-t770.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[How many litres of Fastflex adhesive is produced from a 7.5kg bag & 5ltr bottle??????????]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2009 15:47:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Yeild-t770.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Something usefull from b&q]]></title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/usefull-bandq-t453.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[been in there today to buy one of them oscillating tools for cutting door jams to find they are on special offer at about £40 instead of £75ish.<br />They work like a fein and i know you will find lots of other jobs for this tool when you see it in action]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 16:52:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/usefull-bandq-t453.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Idea ?? !!</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Idea-t1065.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In the process of re-vamping back garden. Excavation company due Wed to excavate back garden, loads of soil about 25sq m on an upwards slope. Will be decking the area. Am on a budget,so have thought of an idea to save some time and money,rather than lift & replace flags. The path outside the back door,running the width of the house is currently nasty concrete flagstones,securely fixed. My idea is to make a pebble mosaic effect path by fixing decorative gravel on a bed of adhesive over flags and grouting to acheive a pebble mosaic effect at a fraction of the cost.<br />Did a test flag 3 weeks ago using a 6mm bed of Supercover. Did not grout on purpose.... gravel still fixed well despite bad weather & rain.<br />Will this stand the test of time if using correct adhesive ? If so what is best grout to use ?<br />Still going to test dif types of gravel to acheive most pleasing result !]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Sep 2009 21:10:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Idea-t1065.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>UFH  Disaster Area</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/UFH-Disaster-Area-t588.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is a classic example of a so called fixer trying his hand at installing UFH system. He has not had the first clue on how to prepare, install and advise the client on how the heating should be used.   The fixer was on the phone last week to me, to tell me he had lost his court case and could he have a copy of the photo's I took when I first went to imspect this complaint 12 months ago. He is of the opinion that he may have a case to put by way of an appeal. His client is a barrister..... <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":wacko:" border="0" alt="wacko.gif" /> <br />I politely told him not to get his hopes up !!<br /><br /><b>Adhesive used BAL Rapid set Flexible <br />Kitchen floor single layer of chipboard</b><br /><br /><img src="http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7523/ufhdisaster004.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><img src="http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/3696/ufhdisaster001.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><b>The Kitchen then ran onto T&G Floorboards in a small corridor </b><br /><br /><img src="http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/8792/ufhdisaster003.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><b>Then because of levels he nailed a 6mm plywood down to lead into a w/c Cloakroom</b><br /><br /><img src="http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5057/ufhdisaster002.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><img src="http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/6518/ufhdisaster.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 May 2009 10:52:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/UFH-Disaster-Area-t588.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sealers and Cleaners</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Sealers-Cleaners-t1045.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi All,<br /><br />Genesis and I are new to the forum. However, I am sure many of you will be unaware of our product portfolio. Did you know we also have a full range of sealers and cleaners suitable for all types of natural stones, marbles, granite etc.? Please email info@genesis-aps.com with your name, phone and address details should you wish to recieve more information and details of your nearest distributor.<br /><br />Many thanks<br />Regards<br /><br />Mike]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:35:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Sealers-Cleaners-t1045.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Topps - I dispair....!</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Topps-dispair-t959.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have just quoted a large domestic job with my trade prices from Topps. <br />No mark up on the tiles or materials, I've had to go in very keen to get the work and simply make money on the labour side.<br />Customer has called to ask why my "special trade prices" are exactly the same as the ones she was quoted from Topps a couple of weeks before we even met!<br />This makes me look like a liar and an idiot after I discussed how long I've been in the trade, what a good relationship I have with Topps and how I can save her some cash on the retail material prices using my trade accounts.<br /><br />What is the point of sending my customers to Topps when I get a big fat ZERO out of it? <br />I am a TAF but that is worth jack-diddly these days.  All the TAF jobs go the the cheap n crap brigade. <br /><br />Anyone else had/having this problem?  What is it with their pricing policy?  <br /><br />Rant over.... <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":angry:" border="0" alt="angry.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Sep 2009 17:40:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Topps-dispair-t959.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Rectified Porcelain</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Rectified-Porcelain-t911.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just out of curiosity and excuse my ignorance but what does 'rectified' mean?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:49:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Rectified-Porcelain-t911.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Angled walls</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Angled-walls-t695.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I just done a quote for a job in a downstairs loo, the room shape is sort of  like a half 50p coin (sorry i couldn't think of the correct word lol) he's using 600 x 300 porcelain. <br /><br />When i come to running the the tile around the angled bits would you suggest mitreing the cut of the tile or just simply cut the tile in 2 then but them up or if there are any other tricks i could do<br /><br />Cheers <br /><br />tj <br /><br />Ps i have done this before but just wanted to see what others do for a perfect finish]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 17:46:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Angled-walls-t695.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>BAL Variset XP</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-Variset-XP-t1092.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[How many of thy golden coins will i have to part with to avail myself of this bag of goodies?????? <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/blush.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Oct 2009 19:25:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-Variset-XP-t1092.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Speedtiler.com</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Speedtilercom-t1406.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<br /><!--sizeo:4--><span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><b>Are you fast enough to win big cash prizes?</b><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><br /><br /><br /><b>Speedtiler.com </b>is a new competition to find the fastest tile fixer in the UK. <br /><br />A number of free events will be held at differing locations throughout the UK, so that all fixers have the chance to show they are up to the challenge! <br /><!--sizeo:2--><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--><b>- And the first event starts at <a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tubsandtiles.net%2Fhowtofindus.cfm' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_tubsandtiles_net');">Tubs and Tiles, Coventry </a>from Monday.</b><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><br /><br /><br />For fixers; 'time is money' and speed really is the key to win big cash prizes with Speed Tiler! Simply fix 10 tiles to the given specification in the fastest time for a chance to win. The top 3 fixers will share a grand, before having the chance to be crowned national champion!<br /><br />Supported by BAL Variset XP - the world's first controllable-setting adhesive from the UK's market-leading brand for tile adhesives and grouts - the same BAL professional standards apply. All entries must be in line with competition rules to have a chance of winning!<br /><br />For more information or to find out how to take part throughout January, just ask in-store at Tubs & Tiles or visit <a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.speedtiler.com' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_speedtiler_com');">www.speedtiler.com</a> to find out what other locations / events are being added February and beyond!<br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2010 09:41:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Speedtilercom-t1406.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Some Of My Work--on Swimming Pools</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Work-Swimming-Pools-t1470.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DEJrr0GcYTYo' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_youtube_com');">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJrr0GcYTYo</a> some small jobs that my son helped make this little film,  hope you enjoy guys!! <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jan 2010 13:16:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Work-Swimming-Pools-t1470.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[BAL Wide Joint Grout & GT1]]></title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-Wide-Joint-Grout-and-GT-t611.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I know adding GT1 to Wide Joint offers further applications etc so does it make it suitable for use with a Power Shower?<br /><br />Im guessing it does but would rather now for sure.<br /><br />Thanks in advance for your help.<br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 May 2009 12:39:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/BAL-Wide-Joint-Grout-and-GT-t611.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>TTA Awards 2010</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/TTA-Awards-2010-t1084.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Please find attached communication from the TTA regarding the awards 2010.<br /><br />If any of you want to put yourselves forward we would be pleased to submit your nominations for you and give you any advice on presenting your submissions in the best light. <br /><br />If we get enough short-listed entries we will get together a table of TilerWorld members for the dinner (dance?)<br /><br />you don't have to be a TTA member to enter and contrary to popular belief it is not only the big companies that win (as I am sure you know Jon@JDtiling won 2 awards last year)<br /><br />Have a look at the attached and let me know if you would like to make a submission<br /><br /><br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Oct 2009 18:37:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/TTA-Awards-2010-t1084.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Devi</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Devi-t1082.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Can anyone suggest a good on-line retailer for Devi? <br />I used this matting for the 1st time yesterday and with the sticky netting it was installed in no time. <br />No floaty bits either when I poured the slc - which is nice! <br /><br />For some installs the ease of use with this has got to save me money even if it costs more. <br /><br />Wheredyagetitfromthen???<br /><br />Ta!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Oct 2009 21:13:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Devi-t1082.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Schluter Help</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Schluter-t1091.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi have a job coming up end Oct<br /><br />Floor requires some expansion joints,will be using Schluter.<br />However,also the tiles will at a few points in the room be going up to woodwork ( which is new patio door frames )<br />The lenghts are<br />3.75 metres<br />2.8 metres<br />1.7 metres<br />1.5 metres<br /><br />The frames are down to floor level. Standard optionswould be to leave expansion gap & fill with silicone, or leave a gap & cover with beading )<br />Neither of these options are perferred by customer.<br /><br />So,question is there a suitable profile I could use which will butt up to the woodwork and tile up to !<br />Or is it possible ( advisable ) to use the same expansion that will be used in the other areas & cut off one side of the metal with a grinder to allow that edge to fit flush with the woodwork ? <br />Was thinking about Schluter Dilex !<br />Would cutting off one side affect the integrity of the product ?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:59:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Schluter-t1091.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>mat well</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mat-t1009.html</link>
		<description>where can i get a metal surround to form a mat well for a front door entrance ?.</description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Sep 2009 10:22:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mat-t1009.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Recession??</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Recession-t736.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just wondering how the apparent recession / credit crunch is affecting guys out there.<br /><br />Has anybody seen a marked slow down in there work / is it picking up again etc.<br /><br />We are as busy as ever, and one of the kitchen suppliers we do work for has had there best start to the year in 24 years!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:06:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Recession-t736.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Walked Off A Job Today !</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Walked-Job-Today-t1262.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Turned up to do a job for a bathroom company today. Have done jobs for them before and their prep work has never been  brilliant,but this took the biscuit.<br />Turned up blind as short notice. On price ( was told ceramic )<br />Well..........<br />The walls looked like the inside of a house in the middle of the Afghan war... loads of massive patches on walls exposed down to old lime plaster,dodgy,rough bonding put on by a blind plasterer... shocking.<br />600 X 300 Porcelain tiles ( brick bond ), tubs of Weber ready mix supplied.<br />No mention of tanking anywhere.<br />9mm ply on floor not screwed down properly,Profix flexi for main floor & wet floor ( which had to be enveloped )<br /><br />I know this company charges a fortune for their installs...<br />They can stick them where the sun don't shine<br />Not interested.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 20:01:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Walked-Job-Today-t1262.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sealers</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Sealers-t1326.html</link>
		<description>what is a good sealer to use for marble mosaic tiles before grouting? HG?</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Dec 2009 20:07:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Sealers-t1326.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Verona Stone</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Verona-Stone-t1456.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Guys,<br />Doing a floor in a couple of weeks time (slc'd it yesterday - kitchen going in next week).<br />Client has had a pallet of Verona Stone tiles delivered (white -ish in colour)<br /><br />Has anybody had any experience with this particular stone (good or bad) and is there anything I should watch out for !!<br /><br />Will it just be a case of the usual seal twice prior to laying, backskim and fit using white addy, then seal again before grouting ??<br /><br />Cheers.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 20:00:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Verona-Stone-t1456.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Dot and Dab Plasterboard</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Dot-Dab-Plasterboard-t825.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Is it sufficient to just Dot and Dab plasterboard to brick/block walls for CERAMIC tiles, if so what would you suggest i stick the boards to the wall with??<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />TJ]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:55:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Dot-Dab-Plasterboard-t825.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wrong Trowel?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Wrong-Trowel-t1434.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Is it me or is the Schluter man useing the WRONG trowel????<br /><br /><a href='http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/redirect.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Df6FyWs2WZ1k%26feature%3Drelated' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="javascript:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_youtube_com');">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1k...feature=related</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Jan 2010 23:15:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Wrong-Trowel-t1434.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Grouting</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Grouting-t456.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[When I started tiling over 20 years ago,I started as an apprentice alongside a grumpy old boy. For 2 years I only did grouting Everyday I would turn up and think today the day when I get my hands on some tiles and do some tiling. As soon as I turned up he would say, "Grout's in the van son,start on the back wall".<br />  Well, I thought I was really hard done by at the time because he did all the good stuff and left me with the dusty job. Today I am really grateful for that start.<br />  Part of my reason is that since working for Bal I have seen some really poor grouting because we usually get called when things have gone wrong. That's not to say that there is not GOOD grouting out there but it's the poor your more likely to remember.<br />      Things have moved forward with grouts in general. Although there are still basic grouts which many tilers favour such as Bal Wall grout there are also the newish breed of grouts like Micoflex, Microcolour which are Polymer modified types.<br />      When I started we (don't do this at home or anyone else's) used to remove floor grout with sawdust to help remove excess grout and polish the floor at the same time.I think it was borowed from the terrazzo layers at the time.Big No,No today.<br />      With our Polymer modified grouts if they start with micro something in the description i.e. micoflex,microcolour, then they also have microban added. This helps to reduce the risk of all the nasties breeding or sporing within the grout. These could be Ecoli,Salmonella,Listeria,Asperillus. From your point of view it can help when discussing with a client for instance colour of grout , spacer gap wanted etc that the microban grout family stay whiter and stop those nasties from occurring. So you're selling a system as well as a service.<br />     The polymers have been added to the grouts to give better flexural and mechanical strength as well as reduced permeability,in other words some waterproofness.Some of them can be further enhanced by adding GT1 or raw polymer for demanding situations.<br />       With the addition of Polymers to the grouts it has made removal from the finished tile more difficult. This depends on the finish of the surface of the tile and the porosity of the face. In general when using these 'A" List grouts work should be done in smaller chunks to facilitate removal.Do not be tempted to over stretch yourself . Saying that we have all done it,but you soon learn how a product behaves and its strength's and weakness's .<br />       With the popularity of porcelain standard non modified grouts are not really suitable. This is because as you all know porcelain is non porous and "normal grouts" will crack away from the joint once they harden. This is because they might shrink in the joint or they are not "sticky" enough to stick to the side of porcelain. Dark lines or cracks in the joint are a tell tale sign of this and temperature changes can also bring this on. Many even experienced tilers got caught out by this when porcelain took off.<br />       Efflorescence is also a common problem.I won't go into this since Gaz has already posted something on this.<br />       If you use "A" list grouts such as Microcolour then the chances of this happening are significantly reduced,and there is a colour to suit most tile types.<br />       When mixing grouts what I usually do is add water to a bucket and mix grout into the water. When I have mixed up I usually leave it to stand for 5 to 10 mins. After the 10 mins I remix it with my gauging trowel<u> not</u> adding further water. During this rest period (5-10mins) any unmixed powder will be absorbed by the water in the mix.When you re agitate it after the 10 mins you end up with a uniform mixed product which is also smoother to float into the joints. With Microcolour it is also rapid setting (5hrs).This helps when you wash off because the grout "pick's up" in the joint faster and leaves the joints flusher at wash off stage.Being a rapid set grout  it also hydrates faster,usefull with porcelain and eliminates efflorescence.<br />        I try not to use a washboy on walls mainly due to personal preference but also to limit the amount of water used to wash off to not encourage efflorescence. If I am doing floors then I do go the washboy route,pass the sponge float through the rollers a few times  to keep it drier, rapid set grout( Microcolour wide joint),normally gives a trouble free installation.<br />        We should count ourselves lucky in the sense that we are in a finished trade so to speak.As soon as you start tiling the walls or floors are transformed and so the result is instant. The tiling normally pulls the walls and floors together and the cieling to give definition. We also pull all the other trades together once the tiling is finished.<br />        Grouting can make or break a job . Now I have got nothing but respect for that grumpy bloke .And the tilers that hate grouting,just think that your cheque is not too far away once your on the home straight. <br /><br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:24:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Grouting-t456.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Business Logo</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Business-Logo-t1108.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I participate occasionally in a Business forum,noticed a post from a graphic designer offering a few free logo designs so she could add to her portfolio.<br />I showed interest, she replied asking me what I wanted. I replied saying that I would leave up to her. Anyway she came back with 4 designs,this is the one I chose.<br />Think it is pretty good, will be having the design printed on some T shirts & sweatshirts.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Oct 2009 19:41:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Business-Logo-t1108.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>What mark up are Topps putting on the BAL products?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mark-Topps-putting-B-t266.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Seems way over priced in my local store. Is there any RRP we can get from BAL to question retailers prices, I am sure they just put them up to make even more out of people.<br /><br />Thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2009 22:48:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/mark-Topps-putting-B-t266.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My first big job using Bal products</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/big-job-Bal-products-t1122.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Starting a job on Monday,big bal order<br />14 bags PTB FLEXI<br />4 BAGS SINGLE PART FAST FLEX<br />2 BAGS MULTI BASE SELF LEVELLER<br />3 X 2.5 LITRE APD PRIMER<br />3 X ADMIX GT1<br />6 X MICROCOLOUR GROUT<br />PLUS SCHLUTER MOVEMENT JOINTS & EDGE PROFILES<br /><br />Really looking forward to getting started & using this top notch gear.<br />Also looking forward to getting my 15% cheque from CTD in a month !]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:41:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/big-job-Bal-products-t1122.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Qualifications, affiliations and medals?</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Qualifications-affiliati-t742.html</link>
		<description>When are we going to see these greyed out areas filled in on the tiler listings?.</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Jun 2009 19:03:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Qualifications-affiliati-t742.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Star-tech Tiles</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Star-tech-Tiles-t1418.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[has anyone used these's tiles they a high quartz content and sparkle a lot?? imlooking to install them in a wetroom!!! any-advice guys! <img src="http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 20:28:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Star-tech-Tiles-t1418.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Poor Clients</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Poor-Clients-t1174.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Got a call this afternoon from a lady asking me if I could call round and look at putting some tiling right for them (was recommended by a previous customer)<br /><br />They had employed some lads they knew from their village to install a bathroom suite for them, and the lads said they also did tiling.<br /><br />When I got there - nice plastic ceiling, nice bathroom suite, but the tiling !!!!<br /><br />I have never seen such a poor job - uneven tiles, open mitres on tile trims, tiles wobbling in place, evidence of spot fixing where tiles had been pulled back off.<br />The floor had been tiled with a couple of mil thick ply with the odd screw here and there, and the tiles had been stuck with a "bond it" pre mixed adhesive? - after two days the client could still easily pull the tiles off the floor.<br /><br />It got to the point where the client made the lads leave the remainder of the work - a feature wall with two rectangular recesses in it - and the floor is getting re done.<br /><br />I felt heartily sorry for the clients when we got onto price etc, in my opinion the whole lot should have come off and been done again, but they said they have spent so much so far they cant afford to do it all again, and they dont have any recourse with the lads as they are not a recognised company / trader.<br /><br />The conclusion was I would put a price together based on re plying and tiling the floor, and tiling the feature wall - the client is going to decide what they can or cant live with and e mail any extra works they require prior to me submitting the price.<br /><br />The worst part is, they have told the lads they will say no more about it, as they live in the same village, and although they wont recommend them to anyone; if asked they will say they left an ok job !!!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 21:45:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Poor-Clients-t1174.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>starting out best ways to drum up work</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/starting-ways-drum-wo-t457.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Over the last year since starting out self employed ive learned a hell of alot. And in these difficult times i think we need to work harder than ever. Im going to share a few tips to the newbies on the best way of getting work<br /><br />1) ADVERTISING- If your starting out then advertising is defintley a good way to start a few examples eg- Local newspaper,yellow pages,yell.com,gumtree etc there are lots of sites where you can take advantage of free advertising you have got nothing to lose.<br /><br />2)WORD OF MOUTH- Probably im sure most will agree is the best form of advertising there is eg of previous customers,other trades etc. Always remember every job has a potential of more work so being proffesional,polite,clean,and most of a brilliant job. Eventually your name will spread it will take time though.<br /><br />3)OTHER TRADES- As mentioned in the 2nd point getting work of other trades is priceless, id say about 70 % of my work comes from other trades. Go and visit Kitchen,Bathroom,conservatory,builders etc offer your services to them and they maybe willing to help although it is a quite period some trades are willing to help.<br /><br />4)CARD DROPS/LEAFLETS- get some business cards together go into your local tile shops,speak to them,get to know them, and again eventually they will pass your cards out to there customers. Leaflet drops was one idea i didnt think would work but ive tried it and it can be quite succesful and it will get you more know round the area.<br /><br />5)VAN SIGNWRITING/WORKWEAR- Having your van and workwear signed is also important especially when your taking trips to tile shops,diy shops ect people will know who you are<br /><br />FINALLY BEWARE OF COLD CALLERS PROMISING YOU WORK THEY RARELY DELIVER!!!!<br /><br />Id like to share this with you. These point have worked for me in the past and i hope they will work for some of you even if you have no work keep trying eventually your hard work should pay off]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:24:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/starting-ways-drum-wo-t457.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Encaustic</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Encaustic-t915.html</link>
		<description>been asked to price a job using Encaustic tiles, never uesed them and im sure if i look on google i can find all i need to know but you guys have proberbaly fitted them before any advice. I need to wear gloves apparently?</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:08:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/Encaustic-t915.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>help/advice rqd</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/help-advice-rqd-t1004.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi all<br />Help advice rqd for a job im just about to start<br />rennovating 4 bathrooms and 2 kitchen in house in st john but have run into a small problem in one bathrom and a kitchen (these are basement rooms) sand cement on walls no probs there, it is the floors that might cause me a problem having lifted the old tiles very easily i add it appears they have been laid on a bitchimun sealent on screed im assuming this is for waterproof tanking idea of many years ago what should i use to fix new tiles down as the old adhesive had failed and was removable by a light scrapping Hope you guys can advise me]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:39:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/help-advice-rqd-t1004.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>white rapid set flex</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/white-rapid-set-flex-t1074.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[will white rapid set flex adhere to mapie keralastic?<br /><br />assuming it will how many 20 kg bags will i need to have a 15mm bed for a run of 35 linear mts to a width of 150mm]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2009 19:36:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/white-rapid-set-flex-t1074.html</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Help Please</title>
		<link>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/-t1563.html</link>
		<description><![CDATA[guys ive just finished a 200m2 natuarl stone floor, tile are 600x600x20mm stone is limestone with a honed finish.<br /><br />i have sealed it with hg sealer impregnator 2. the stone is sealed water is pooling on the surface this has been done correctly etc.<br /><br />the finish is crap it looks horrible you can see all the roller marks in it. i have tried polishing in a coat on top with a lint free cloth but it still looks the same.<br /><br />i did a test area in another room using lithofin stain stop and had excatly the same result the stone is sealed but just looks nasty.<br /><br />im getting concernced now as what to do have spoken to hg and lithofin both offered different advice one said i had over worked the product which i havent i have done lots of stone floors but never anything like this has happened.<br /><br />i have tried removing the sealer using power clean as suggested by lithofin but to no avail which is kinda what hg said but to use there version not power clean.<br /><br />hg have now said i have not applied enough coats so i have on a test tile now had 4 coats of thier sealer but it still look the same.<br /><br />lithofin suggested a sealer called multi seal which you pour on roller aroud and leave and this leaves a satinbg finish on top whichi could live with.<br /><br />my problem now is 2 fold i dont want to keep trying new products unless i know there going to work as if they dont i have to remove them and i dont have time to keep testing small area letting them dry and then trying again.<br /><br />when you look at each stone as an individual item it looks lovely but when the sun shines in the whole floor looks horrible. i feel that if i have a product that could leave a soft sheen over the whole floor then this would aleavate the problem as you would not see these lines etc when the sun shone as the new product would be sitting on the surface.<br /><br />i have attached an image sorry for quality but i only had my phone on me and if you look carefully you can see what i mean lots of lines over the stone.<br /><br />has anybody had this happen to them if so what did you do<br /><br />PJ especial;y upi must have sealed 1000's of meters can you reccomend a product to help out.<br /><br />cheers<br />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 19:46:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.tilerworld.com/forum/-t1563.html</guid>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>